A masterclass in understated fine dining is what Fernanda Langhammer discovered at Cipriani Bahrain, where every detail met the high expectations set by such a prestigious name.
Enjoying a meal at Cipriani is more than just sustenance – it’s an experience that seamlessly blends classic Italian elegance with exceptional hospitality. Renowned for its refined ambience and signature dishes, the restaurant has earned a global reputation for serving authentic Italian cuisine with impeccable attention to detail. Having previously dined at Harry’s Bar in Venice – the original Cipriani – and even had the privilege of meeting Arrigo Cipriani himself, I was eager to see whether the Bahrain restaurant could capture the same magic. I’m pleased to say it stays true to the heritage and standards that have made Cipriani an enduring institution, but with a bonus: a touch of GCC splendour.
Harry’s Bar was founded in 1931 and has earned many accolades, including for its culinary creations, such as Carpaccio, and the Bellini. The restaurant follows an interesting concept that relies heavily on consistency: the timeless recipes dating back to its opening, with Venetian and Northern Italian staples, rotate daily, twice – lunch and dinner – with a new printed menu that includes the date of your visit. How distinctive is that? The daily variations and rotating specials ensure ingredient freshness. Still, if you have your heart set on a particular favourite, the attentive staff are always happy to let you know whether it’s available that day.
SMALL PLATES, BIG PERSONALITIES
Our meal started with a selection of mocktails, from coffee-based to raspberry-freshness, accompanied by classic nibs such as crispy zucchini fritters, chunky olives and shards of Parmesan. A beginning that set the tone for the lunch: straightforward food made with high-quality ingredients.
The first dishes to come to our table were a selection of appetisers, salads and ‘The Classics of Harry’s Bar’. We had two types of salads: Endive Salad with Avocado and Shaved Parmesan Cheese and Beetroots and Asparagus Salad with Goat Cheese. The endive salad relied on contrast – crisp, slightly bitter leaves enveloped in creamy avocado, creating a play of textures between crunch and velvety softness. The beetroot was a pleasant surprise: it had the right sweetness, without that soil hint that usually accompanies this vegetable. It sat perfectly with the tender asparagus chunks, while the goat cheese and thinly sliced basil leaves finalised the taste profile. It was refreshing yet full-bodied and we kept going back for more.
One of the most-awaited items: the Carpaccio “Alla Cipriani” was next in line. A paper-thin canvas of ruby-red raw beef with a silky, melt-inyour-mouth texture paired with the venue’s signature mustard-spiked mayonnaise dressing. The presentation features a Kandinsky-inspired crosshatch pattern; however, the dish’s name honours the Renaissance painter Vittore Carpaccio, whose vibrant red and yellow tones led the creator, Giuseppe Cipriani (Arrigo’s father), to connect the dish to the artist. A recipe that counts on technique and balances delicate savoury notes with a sharp, creamy tang. Maybe Giuseppe predicted it would be a culinary masterpiece when artists inspired the creation.
In a very humble appearance, the Avocado and Prawns with Salsa Rosa added a refreshing bite. Gently boiled, extremely tender prawns, served with avocado slices and a classic pink sauce. A starter that won our taste buds by its modesty, it was a table pleaser.
THE HEADLINERS THAT LIVED UP TO THE HYPE
One of the most legendary dishes from Harry’s Bar – and one you’re almost certain to have come across if you have even a slight interest in fine dining – is the Baked White Tagliolini with Veal Ham, an indulgence disguised as simplicity. The tagliolini is impossibly fine and silky, baked into a soft, creamy embrace that feels both airy and decadent at once. The veal ham runs delicately through each forkful, adding a gentle, savoury depth. It’s comforting yet refined, nostalgic yet polished and unmistakably Cipriani in its understated elegance – a true signature and, quite simply, a must-order.
The Chicken Spezzatino “al Limone” with Rice Pilaf is an elevated take on comfort food. The bite-sized chicken pieces were succulent and gently braised, absorbing the delicate lemon-butter sauce that brought brightness without overpowering acidity – served alongside a light, fluffy rice pilaf.
And last but not least, a dish that won us over with its effortlessness yet striking presence: the Wild Sea Bass with Tomatoes, Taggiasca Olives and Potatoes. The presentation is worth highlighting – one kilogram of fish arrives on a very large tray, which the waitstaff skillfully portions onto two smaller ones. Important to mention, the service at Cipriani is an experience of its own, with every team member dressed in immaculate white suits and moving with refined, almost ceremonial precision, turning the tableside preparation into a quiet spectacle.
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